The Black Roll: A modest ruler of style for centuries
There are pieces of clothing that will never go out of style. It will drag on for decades, sometimes centuries, it may change its basic purpose, but in some magical way it will remain irreparably relevant. One of these pieces is definitely the black roller.
When we think of the black roll today, we are probably thinking of Audrey Hepburn or one of the famous existentialists. However, the black roll is more than a patent for Audrey's film "Funny Face" and more than a feature of the philosophical style of a generation. Behind this seemingly simple outfit lies history, very important personalities, and even a few social movements.
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This is a story about the mistress of style - about everything that survived, everything that produced and everything that meant, and still means today, not only in the fashion world, but also in the wider society.
A brief history of the black roll
The black roll first appeared in the mid-16th century, when it was worn by members of the English aristocracy. Queen Elizabeth I was known for her blouses and dresses with a so-called high neck, and often wore a black roll under the rich layers of lace and jewelry.
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Although it seemed that the black roll would somehow remain a royal symbol, this was not the case. During the 19th century, English polo players would use it as part of a sports jersey in competitions. Hence, in English, first in the British pronunciation, the term "roller" is preserved.polo neck “, in addition to the famous "turtleneck “.
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During the 30s and 40s, the black roll became a classic part of the average American worker's wardrobe, and was also part of the official American uniform during World War II (this time made of heavy wool). .
During this period, and especially in the 50's, the black roll will finally manage to break into the fashion scene and become an imperative of style, thanks to the celebrities who celebrated it.
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Academics, philosophers, intellectuals, artists - all wore this powerful piece of clothing. Black "cigarette" pants, black skirt and black shoes soon became an eternal and unmistakable combination. Audrey Hepburn launched her once and for all in her film "Funny Face". The black roll of one of the most beautiful women of all time under the bright lights of Paris has become a true definition of style.
Jean-Paul Sartre, Albert Camus, Simone de Beauvoir and a whole constellation of existentialists immortalized the black roll as a feature of an intellectual, somewhat mystical style, which was inevitable and remained attractive to everyone.
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In the decade that followed, the black skirt became part of the formal wardrobe, replacing the suit and tie. It is believed that fashion designers Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent are the most responsible for breaking this piece among the business world. They replaced the classic white shirt with a black roll, and the tie with a scarf.
In this way, the roll begins to conquer the wider market, and the businessmen of that time became far more modern and elegant than before.
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A 1967 issue of the New York Times wrote:
"Manhattan black rollers are as inevitable as polluted air, and people who wear them all the time feel like they have avoided the conformism of suits and ties."
Finally, during the 1970s, the black roll significantly marked the feminist movement. Gloria Steinem was the strongest advocate for equality between men and women at the time, but especially in the field of dress. In her speeches she often wears a black roll, and has become, so to speak, a symbol of this strong social movement.
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What is so magical about the black roll?
Above all, she is very grateful for wearing it - not only because it fits her body perfectly, but it also benefits her self-confidence.
When we wear a black roll, everything at once looks much nicer and smoother on us. The high neck of the roll seems to look almost sculptural. Fashion designer Roy Halston will say this:
"The black roll is the most comfortable and beautiful piece you can wear. It moves with the body, clings to it, emphasizes the face and lengthens the figure. It just makes life so simple. "
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Moreover, the significance of this piece of clothing becomes greater after learning its entire history. Wearing it, we identify with Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren, Camille, Warhol, Steve Jobs…
Here it is interesting to look at the fact that many powerful and famous people had a very simple style of dress and often wore the same combination throughout their lives, and that was what created the strongest impression.
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Steve Jobs, a man remembered for his "black roller-Lewis 501" combination, will meet one of their designers on a trip to Japan and admire his collection of black rollers. He was so impressed by their simple authenticity that he decided to make it his uniform.
He asked the designer to make hundreds of identical rolls for him, and when asked by a journalist why he sticks to only one unique combination, he will say:
"Black rollers are what I wear. "I have enough of them to last for the rest of my life and that suits me perfectly."
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The black roll today
From today 's perspective, it should not be at all unusual that the black roll is still a mandatory piece in every male or female closet.
Just as Gloria Steinem fought for equality wearing a black roll, so today the idea of the so-called unisex wardrobe. Women's boutiques are flooded with clothes with motifs of military camouflage uniforms, boyfriend jeans, and even women's ties. Thus, the black roll significantly accelerated the process of propagating gender equality.
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Just as Greta Garbo or Jean-Paul Sartre felt superior and intellectually wearing black rollers, so do we today. And isn't the rich history of a piece of clothing what keeps it alive in the end?
The whole secret of good looks is summed up in just one, seemingly ordinary, insignificant piece - simplicity, attitude and physics. Styles change, epochs pass and come, but obviously the black roll will remain constant for a long time.
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